Valdeon in the Picos is left behind after a very pleasant stay with Miriam our AirB&B host. A very kind and most helpful lady. Our route to the coast took us towards Leon via Riano, Leon, then via Ourense to the coast just south of Vigo where the next stopover close to the Portuguese border is 10 miles from a special archaeological site of Celtic origin.
The new venue hosts are Dutch and speak English quite well. The Morgan ran beautifully, but 350 miles is plenty for one days' travel and its septuagenarian driver. Including three rest stops the journey took 6 hours. At A Garda the Celtic Village is on a granite rock commanding views along the coast from north to south including the mouth of the Minho river and across to Portugal.
Between 3000 and 5000 villagers lived here in Celtic times.
The roofs were believed to be of conical form
Before the Romans arrived on the scene all transport and travel was by sea
The sea port today is not very elegant - Just a working harbour with a few fishing boats
Before setting off this morning I greased the steering while Helen "powdered her nose". Me getting dirty; her getting much more presentable. A super day we enjoyed together, having spotted a Pine Marten and a wild cat as we drove slowly along the back road to Portilla de la Reina . Here was a roadside stable peppered with holes and crevices busy with masonry bees. At the foot of the wall I managed to catch a lizard.
Returning to Posada de Valdeón we later continued on to Caín de Valdeón. A super meal was had and a quiet few quiet moments in the sun, doing nothing very much. At Cain frequent taxis appear to pick up walkers at the head of the defile and 12k path that follows the Rio Cares.
The river was thundering, gushing and gurgling down along the rock strewn beds. Even above the exhaust note of the Morgan we could hear that roar echoing between the walls of the canyon.
Excellent food served here
Fortunately the rain flooding down had fallen the previous week to our arrival.
20kph max speed through this corner !
Mini Buses & Morgans yes - Coaches no.
Thundering along the torrents go downhill as we go uphill
Rio Cares followed by a rock cut footpath for 12 k. We walked along it for two or three kilometers before turning back. The path is uneven and sometimes cuts into the rock face with low headroom tunnels. Decent walking shoes needed if you wish to go much further down along here.
Left Posada de Valdeon by LE2711 heading south west to join the N625 towards Cangas de Onis. Took a right turn in the town onto the AS-114. At Soto de Congas the AS262 was taken through Covadonga to our destination at Lagos de Covadonga .
This day out proved to be a challenge for us both but the spectacular scenery was quite rewarding. Spotted a flock of Alpine Chuff and a Vulture. At this time of year the woodland is not yet in full leaf and some is seen in white blossom. Higher up, the bare trees are draped in swathes of lichen. The snow is melting rapidly and swells the gushing rivers and gullies.
The round trip takes about six hours including a walk around the lake and a good lunch stop en-route.
Caín de Valdeón is a small village a short drive from our B&B so we chose to explore and pleased we did so. The Rio Cares carves a deep gorge along which there is a footpath hewn by men, over many centuries, out of the limestone rock. It weaves a tortuous path through tunnels, beside steep drops and clinging to the rock face.
In all, the path is 12k long but we managed only the first 2k before the legs began to "wither on the vine" so to speak.
A beautiful days circular tour subsequently taken from Posada deValdeon anti-clockwise through Riano and back to Valdeon via Portilla de la Reina. At Riano the only Filling station for miles around enabled a top with Sans Plomb 95 octane.
Towards Caín de Valdeón
Through the hairpins
20% gradient
Blind bends
The river thunders down between the rocks and boulders
On Sunday afternoon our short hop to the ferry port had been interrupted by a brief stop to raise the hood as we passed through a heavy shower, lowered again on arrival at the port of Plymouth.
Parked behind a Bentley Continental once through customs and aboard The Pont Aven. We make complimentary remarks of one another’s conveyance. My cheeky offer to exchange was politely refused; (only joking). He asks if mine is not made of plywood and not to disappoint him I indicated that from the scuttle rearwards it is wood clad in aluminium. I ask if he will be lowering the hood of his Bentley; “depends on the good lady wife” came his diplomatic response.
Her long black coat and demeanour was funereal as she stood at the nearside quarter of the magnificent car like a steel bollard, uncomfortably defiant. The Bentley in Arctic White was upholstered in Royal Ivory hide, the hood of Royal Blue Mohair fabric soon to be lowered on arrival at Santander.
The Bay of Biscay was fairly rough with regular clouds of sea spray obliterating the view forward as the Pont-Aven ploughed through big waves off Brest. Sleep came eventually and the ships pitching into the long swell later progressed to a rolling motion between the wave crests.
Santander has a much improved road link directly into the motorway system and we reached Potes for a light meal. Ham and chips for Helen, chorizo and chips for me.
Now back on the road we see quite spectacular limestone gorges along the N621. Soon amidst a snow topped mountain landscape, viewed to best advantage from our little open topped sports, two-seater. Turning north at Portilla de la Reina we pass over another col before the decent into Posada de Valdeon.
Our host mentions how very lucky we are with the weather which has been wet for weeks until today.
